Getting Your Krones Contiform Lamps Right (Without the Headache)
If you’re running a Krones Contiform or any of the big PET blowing lines, you know the drill. When a lamp goes out, you don’t want a “project.” You just want a replacement that fits, turns on, and gets the job done. We built our infrared lamps to be simple drop-in replacements. We didn’t try to reinvent the wheel here. Instead, we focused on matching the exact physical and electrical footprints these industrial ovens demand. It’s about making sure that when you slide a tube in, it actually fits. Let’s talk power. Most Contiform setups rely on high-voltage systems because you need that immediate, intense heat to soften preforms fast. We spec our tubes to hit those exact OEM voltage and wattage marks. For example, when you’re pushing a 2500W lamp at 400V, you get that thermal punch needed for high-speed runs. Just a heads-up: double-check your cabling and power supply. If they aren’t rated for those loads, you’re just asking for a premature burnout. The build quality We use heavy-wall quartz glass and halogen gas fills. Why? Because it lets the lamps run hotter Without killing the filament. And since we use standard R7s or SK15 connectors, you can forget about messing around with custom wiring or hacking together adapter brackets. We also add specific coatings to the quartz. This helps the heat actually soak into the PET wall rather than just scorching the surface of the plastic. Real-world advice The best part is that these fit right into your existing heating galleries. No modifications, no downtime, no stress. You just swap the burnt-out tube and get back to work. But here is a pro tip: high-output shortwave lamps put off a massive amount of ambient heat. If your cooling fans are clogged with dust or just plain dying, these lamps are going to run way too hot. That’ll eat through your filament hours faster than you’d like. Keep your airflow clear. Your lamps—and your sanity—will thank you.